1. Skip to navigation
  2. Skip to content
  3. Skip to sidebar


Forum


Welcome to the GigaPan Forum!

This is the place for Gigapan.com members to offer peer-to-peer support for exchanging tips, ideas, comments, etc.

Those who need direct technical assistance with their GigaPan EPIC Series imagers, stitching software or gigapan.com membership account should contact us.

Forums » General Gigapanning » Still problems with Nodal point

 
Still problems with Nodal point
Paul Emous Paul Emous
Total Posts: 11

Hello everyone.

Let me start this topic by saying I am not a bitter person :)

Having that said, I must say I am really a bit disappointed of my GigaPan Epic Pro. For a couple of months I have been trying numerous times to get better results with the Pano-head but every attempt I do is off, resulting in massive stitch errors and hours and hours of post production.

I read various treads about EP, Nodal points, lenses, camera etc, checked the configuration of my setup, did a physical and optical inspection (for parallaxing) but still I aint getting it right.

To shed some light of what I am trying to achieve:

I do Interior photography and also 360 interior for some time already. I am very much familiar with my equipment and the technical capabilities, yet the GigaPan is driving me nuts and I am becoming very desperate.

Some work done with the GigaPan → http://www.mousemedia.nl/panoramas/EmiratesHill… (shot with 5DMKII + 50 mm 1.4 Aperture F8 / F14 )
Not much stitching errors there as I spend a entire week of editing. It cost me most probably 10 years of my life for the amount of stress it gave me.

I checked http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database to see the proper settings for my camera setup (Canon 5D MKII + 50MM 1.4 = 56mm) but it’s not helping.

I am stitching with GigaPan and PTGui, both give different yet disappointing results.

Now I hope that anyone that reads this that feels my frustration and understands that I this a lot of research (not to mention money) in getting this done. (but I aint getting it done!)

Now my questions:

For a 5DMKII + 50mm 1.4
- What is the proper setting on gigapan? (Camera slider and height #)
- What is the FOV of the 50mm lens / increment steps it should take in order to make the right amount of photos (I tried everything between 200 to 320 and still getting poor results)

I am shooting with a 50mm to get high resolution interior shots but since my current configuration is not working, any feedback is welcome on what I should do.

Thank you very, VERY much! :)

Paul Emous

Paul Emous Paul Emous
Total Posts: 11

This is the latest pano I created using the setting described above.

http://gigapan.com/gigapans/6cf0c1bea13d2f43c3f…

as you see that are alot of stitch errors.

Jason Buchheim Jason Buchheim
Total Posts: 86

Hello Paul,

I just looked over your example. I noticed that it is very good at the equator and low latitudes, your visible stitching errors all come in at the high latitudes.

The Gigapan unit is not really designed for internal, close range, full 360×180 shots. The base is quite large and the firmware is designed to take a grid of photos with the same number of columns on each row. At the higher latitudes, the number of columns needed to cover a region are actually much lower (going to one at the zenith). The Gigapan unit is taking far to many photos at the upper latitudes, and your stitching software is using all of them, which greatly magnifies any alignment issues .

Using Ptgui, you could drop many of the upper latitude images and it would still stitch a complete equirectangular image! (With far fewer visible errors to correct. You will need to look at the rows and figure out how many to drop on each row, allowing for overlap between the remaining images.

Here is a screen capture of a program that shows where each shot should be taken on lat and longitude, for a 50 mm lens and a straight grid and an optimized grid. Notice only one shot at the zenith and nadir on optimized, and just 5 on the next row – that’s 64 unnecessary shots just in these the latitudes. For a full 360×180 equirectangular image with a 50mm lens on full frame camera, you could shoot 170 images on an optimized grid, or 266 on a straight grid.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/2522…. Optimized grid

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/6783…. Straight grid

Perhaps for internal shots you would be better served with a manual indexing panoramic head. It would take more effort while shooting, but far less post processing. There are some really nice indexing heads that have click stops for each photo row and column. These have a small footprint for the nadir shot. You would not need to take all of those extra high latitude images too. There is also the Autopano motorized head that runs on pappy wizard and will shoot an optimized grid.

Sorry I can not help on the alignment issue itself.

Your work is beautiful though!

Jason

Paul Emous Paul Emous
Total Posts: 11

Hi Jason,

Thank you very much for your explanation. It makes complete sense to me. (Apparently I needed that as I was beginning to lose my mind). I do use PTGui and trying to get myself more familiar with the advanced features of the package.

Could you point out in what option menu / field (PTGui) I can take out the unnecessary images?

Also, just for the interest of reading, where did you get the information about the amount of (170) pictures (using a 50mm on FF)?

Thanks again,

Paul


Forums» General Gigapanning » Still problems with Nodal point